AB: See Aurora Borealis.
Abalone: A mollusk whose
shell is pearlescent
on the inside. This
material can be scraped off, sliced thin, and used as inlay on a variety of
jewelry, furniture, etc. These scrapings
are called "mother of pearl".
Acroite: A rare, colorless type of tourmaline.
Acrostic jewelry: A popular kind of jewelry during
the Victorian era
where the first letter of the name of each stone spells out a word. See Regard.
Adamantine: Having a diamond-like
luster or hardness.
Adularia: A common type of moonstone,
usually set as a cabochon. It is
semi-translucent with a white and blue tint. Adularia was very popular
in Art Nouveau jewelry.
Adventurine: A common misspelling of Aventurine.
African Emerald: An African Emerald is not actually an emerald. It is
green fluorite mined in South Africa.
African Jade: African jade is not really jade, but a type of garnet
strongly resembling jade that is mined in South Africa.
Agate: A variety of chalcedony quartz
that is a very common and used
often in jewelry. When chalcedony is variegated with with spots or figures, or
arranged in differently colored layers, it is called agate; and if by reason of
the thickness, color, and arrangement of the layers it is suitable for being
carved into cameos, it is called onyx.
It comes in a wide range of colors including black, gray,
brown, red, green, pink, blue, white, and yellow. Agate can be flecked with
color, such as Moss Agate and Tree Agate,
and is often banded, exhibiting layers
of quartz crystals. Agate is often dyed to enhance the color and banding. There
are a variety of popular agates including onyx,
Eye Agate,
Blue Lace Agate,
Moss Agate, Tree Agate, and
White Agate. (See individual listings)
Agent: A businessman who acts for, or in the place of, another to buy
or sell merchandise in exchange for a commission. Also called a"Broker" or a "middleman".
Aigrette: A feather-shaped piece of jewelry worn in the hair or on a hat.
From the French word "egret", a white heron prized for its plumage.
Alabaster: A form of the mineral gypsum which is usually white or grey
in color. It is often used in sculpture, stone paneling, beads, and cabochons.
Alexandrite: A form of the mineral chrysoberyl discovered in 1830 in
Russia and named after Czar Alexander II, who was then Crown Prince of Russia.
Alexandrite appears to change color under different forms of light. (See Alexandrite Effect.)
It looks red
when viewed in candle light, green when viewed in fluorescent light, blue-green
in sunlight, and reddish-purple in standard electric (tungsten) light.
Alexandrite Effect: A phenomenon in which a stone appears to be
different colors depending upon the type of light it is viewed in. Many other
stones, including ammolite,
garnet and
sapphire, exhibit the "Alexandrite
Effect." Also called Dichroism
Allochroite: A dark colored common garnet composed of
iron
lime.
Alloy: A compound comprised of two or more metals to increase the
hardness and/or luster of the resulting product. Many alloys are found in jewelry including
Alpaca,
Brass,
Britannia Or pewter,
Britannia silver,
Bronze,
Coin silver,
Colored gold,
Electrum,
Gold(under 24Kt),
Green gold,
Nickel silver,
Niello,
Pewter,
Pinchbeck,
Pot metal,
Rose gold,
Stainless steel,
Sterling silver,
White gold,
White metal, and
Yellow gold. (See individual listings)
Albite: A common white feldspar
composed of a silicate of alumina and
soda. It is a common constituent of granite
and of various igneous rocks.
Almandine: The most common kind of garnet. It is usually deep red to
red-brown and composed of alumina iron.
Alpaca (alpacca): A silver substitute
alloy consisting of 55% copper, 20%
nickel, 20% zinc, and 5% tin.
Alumina: (also called aluminum oxide).
A compound of two parts aluminum and
three parts oxygen which occurs naturally as corundum. Alumina is the base of
aluminous salts, a constituent of feldspars, micas, etc., and the
characterizing ingredient of common clay, in which it exists as an impure
silicate with water, resulting from the erosion of other aluminous minerals. In
a hydrated form it is bauxite. Alumina is used in aluminum
production and in abrasives, refractories, ceramics,
and electrical insulation.
Aluminium: An alternate spelling of Aluminum.
Aluminum: An inexpensive, lightweight, silver-white ore with a bluish
tinge. Aluminum is primarily found in bauxite, is remarkable for its resistance
to oxidation, and is used in many alloys.
Amazonite: A form of jadeite named for the Amazon river where it was
first found in the 19th century. It is opaque and iridescent and ranges in color
from green to blue-green. It is usually set as a cabochon since it breaks easily
if faceted. It can also be found in Colorado, Virginia, the Ural Mountains of
Russia, Australia, and Africa. Some rare crystals are transparent.
Amber: The fossilized resin of conifer trees. The most common colors
are honey yellow and various shades of red, but can also be off-white, black,
and blue. Amber is easily simulated using plastics, but real amber produces
static electricity when rubbed.
American Ruby: See pyrope garnet.
Amethyst: A common form of quartz.
Amethyst is usually purple, but can range in color from pale
lavender to a very deep, reddish purple and may have milky white or green
inclusions.
Deeper-colored amethysts are more highly valued. The name comes from the Greek for "not
drunken" as wearing amethyst was believed to be a proof against becoming
intoxicated. The amethyst is said to bring good
luck and to radiate love. Amethyst is the birthstone for February. Some variants
are Cape amethyst and Ametrine.
Ametrine: A mixture of amethyst and
citrine,
it is partially purple and partially orange-yellow.
Ammolite: (also known as Buffalo Stone, calcentine, or korite) is the
fossilized shell of the ammonite, an ancient cephalopod. It can be used as a
gemstone and is a gray, iridescent stone with flashes of blue, green, purple,
red, or yellow. (Blues and purples are rare.) The color changes as the stone is
viewed from different angles. It is only found in southern Alberta, Canada.
Amorphous: A gem lacking a distinct crystalline structure such as
amber,
ivory, and jet.
Amphibole: A common mineral composed of
silicate of magnesium and
calcium, (with usually aluminum
and iron), which occurs in monoclinic crystals
and comes in many varieties, each varying in color and in composition. The color
varies from white to gray, green, brown, and black. Jade is a form of Amphibole.
Amulet: A pendant or charm
carried as a protection from evil or illness or to bring good luck.
Andradite: A garnet used as a
gemstone of the grossular family
consisting of calcium iron
silicate
and having any color ranging from yellow and
green to brown and black.
Angelite: A pale blue variety of calcium
sulfate. (A gypsum that has lost water and
transparent to translucent).
Angelskin Coral: A highly valued pale pink coral.
Anklet: A bangle or bracelet
worn around the ankle instead of the
wrist. Anklets tend to be slightly larger than bracelets.
Anneal: The process of hardening glass, pottery, or metal by alternately heating and
pounding it.
Anniversaries: The chart below lists the most recognized traditional
gifts and jewelry used to commemorate wedding anniversaries:
| YEAR |
TRADITIONAL |
|
JEWELRY |
| 1 |
Paper,
clocks |
|
Gold |
| 2 |
Cotton,
china |
|
garnet |
| 3 |
Leather,
crystal |
|
Pearl |
| 4 |
Linen or
silk |
|
Blue Topaz |
| 5 |
Wood,
silverware |
|
Sapphire |
| 6 |
iron,
wood |
|
Amethyst |
| 7 |
Wool or copper, desk sets |
|
Onyx |
| 8 |
Bronze |
|
Tourmaline |
| 9 |
Pottery or
china |
|
Lapis |
| 10 |
Tin or
aluminum |
|
diamond |
| 11 |
Steel |
|
Turquoise |
| 12 |
Silk |
|
Pearls, colored gems |
| 13 |
Lace |
|
Citrine |
| 14 |
Ivory |
|
Opal, Gold jewelry |
| 15 |
Crystal |
|
Ruby, watches |
| 20 |
China |
|
emerald, platinum |
| 25 |
Silver |
|
Sterling silver |
| 30 |
Pearl |
|
diamond |
| 35 |
Jade |
|
Jade, Emerald |
| 40 |
Ruby |
|
Ruby |
| 45 |
Sapphire |
|
Sapphire |
| 50 |
Gold |
|
Gold |
| 55 |
Emerald |
|
Emerald |
| 60 |
Diamond |
|
Diamond |
Anodized: An "anode" is the positive end of an electrical
circuit. In the anodization process, a metal object is placed in an acid bath
and an electrical current is passed through the tank. The process causes oxygen
atoms to bond to the surface of the metal giving it a thin protective film and a
lustrous sheen. Aluminum,
magnesium, titanium, and
tantalum are often anodized.
Antique Jewelry: Jewelry made more than 100 years ago.
Antiqued: Jewelry that has been made to look aged, having a darkened or
tarnished appearance.
Antiquing: Darkening the recessed areas of gold or
silver jewelry to
enhance the visibility of engraving.
Anulus pronubus: See Betrothal Ring.
Apache Tears: A glassy type of obsidian
found in lava flows in the southwest USA. Apache tears are
usually black, but occasionally red, brown, gray, green (rare), dark with
"snowflakes," or even clear.
Apatite: A form of calcium
phosphate that is a clear to opaque and comes in
many colors including green, yellow, blue, violet, and yellow-green (called
asparagus stone). Some apatite stones are chatoyant, like the
stone tiger's eye. It is usually too brittle and soft to be used in jewelry.
Applique: An ornamental object which was produced separately and then applied to
a piece of jewelry.
Aqua Aura: Quartz crystals coated with a fine layer of
gold, aluminum,
or copper, which gives them a beautiful iridescent blue finish.
Aqua Regia: A 3:1 mixture of hydrochloric acid and nitric acid used to test
gold and
platinum It is one of the few
substances that can dissolve gold or platinum.
Aquamarine: A member of the beryl family,
like emeralds. Aquamarine is
transparent blue or sea-green. The name comes from a Latin phrase meaning "water of
the sea." Aquamarine is
found all over the world, including Brazil, Russia, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India
and Madagascar. It was thought to bring its wearers knowledge,
foresight and inspiration.
Aragonite: Aragonite is a form of calcium
carbonate, (like coral or
marble), named for Aragon,
Spain, where it was first found in 1790. It is
transparent to translucent and can range in color from honey-colored to pale
reds, blues and greens to clear or white. It forms hexagonal crystals, pyramidal
crystals, chisel shaped crystals, and other shapes. It is not often used for
jewelry.
Arcade Setting: (Also called coronet or châton setting). Refers to
when a gemstone is set in a metal ring and secured by many metal claws.
Arctic Opal: Is not an actual opal, but a blue-green stone mined in
the Wrangle and Chugach Mountains of Alaska that is a mixture of azurite
and malachite.
Arizona Ruby: See pyrope garnet.
Arizona Spinel: A garnet found in Arizona that resembles a spinel.
Arkansas Diamond: Not a real diamond but a form of clear
rock crystal.
Arkansas Stone: An abrasive used to smooth metals in jewelry making.
Art Deco: A popular style of jewelry from the mid-1910's until the
mid-1920's originating in Paris, France. Art Deco pieces are
characterized by geometric lines and angular shapes, zigzags, bold
colors, molded or faceted Czech glass beads, plastics (like celluloid or
Bakelite) and chrome.
Colored stones were utilized more, and the opaque stones such as
jade, onyx and
coral were set in geometric shapes. Sleek animals such as Borzoi
and Greyhound dogs were featured in some designs. It started out with relatively
delicate designs, and progressed to a more bold and blocky style called Art
Moderne.
Art Nouveau: A classification of popular jewelry created from the late
"Victorian" period through the "Edwardian" period, about
1880-1910, exemplified by a flowing style of jewelry consisting of fluid lines,
sinuous curves, floral
and nature themes and natural colors. A common motif features long-haired, sensual women.
Articulated: Jewelry constructed with hinges to make it flexible.
Arts and Crafts: An artistic design movement that began in the late 1800s
by jewelry designers who felt that their work should look handmade. Although
some pieces were made of gold,
silver was more commonly used to emphasize the
craftsmanship of the piece rather than the intrinsic value of the components. Pieces
purposely look hand-made, incorporating hammer marks and using less expensive
stones like moonstone, mother of pearl,
agates, or amber in simple cabochon
settings. The Arts and Crafts movement also revived the art of enamel work.
Asparagus Stone: A yellow-green form of Apatite.
Assay: A test of the purity of an alloy by scraping a bit of metal
from the piece and determining the percentage of gold
or silver. A piece that
meets the standards of purity is given a hallmark for use outside of the U.S.
Asscher, Joseph: An eminent diamond cutter from Amsterdam who cut the
3,106 carat Cullinan diamond. In 1902 the Asscher Diamond Co. developed and patented the Asscher
cut.
Asscher Cut: A squarish step cut
with an almost octagonal outline which enhances the fire and light
of the stone. It features a small table,
a high crown, wide step facets, a deep
pavilion and square culet.
This cut became very popular in Art Deco jewelry and
was a forerunner of the emerald cut.
Asterism: A star-like luminous effect caused by reflections of light in
some stones, like Star Sapphires and Star Garnets.
ATW: Stands for the Approximate Total Weight, in
carats, of a gemstone.
Aurora Borealis: Aurora borealis means "northern lights".
AB
rhinestones have a special iridescent
finish that shines with many colors. The
iridescent surface is a result of a very thin layer of metallic
atoms that have
been deposited on the lower surface of the stone via a process invented by the Swarovski company together with Christian
Dior in 1955.
Australian Ruby: See pyrope garnet.
Austrian crystal: Trade name for lead crystal cut with precise edges
and angles at the Swarovski factory, located in Wattens in the Austrian Tyrols,
by a glass-cutting machine invented by Daniel Swarovski in 1895. Austrian
crystals are known for their quality, brilliance, and clarity.
See Crystal.
Aventurine: (sometimes known as goldstone). Often mistaken for jade,
aventurine is a granular green or blue
semi-translucent to mostly opaque
quartz stone with mica flecks that cause a slight
metallic iridescence.
Aventurine Feldspar: See Sunstone.
Aventurine Glass: A
shimmering glass containing tiny copper flakes invented in Venice, Italy, around
1700.
Aventurine Quartz: A type of quartz found in India, Russia,
and Tanzania that contains sparkling
flecks of mica or iron.
Awabi Pearl: The Japanese name for Pearls found in
abalone mollusks.
Axinite: An unusual, lustrous stone that is bi-colored in brown, yellow, blue,
green or gray. Violet axinite, from Tasmania, is rare. It is used only as a mineral
specimen and not in jewelry.
Axis Of Symmetry: (also called a rotational axis). An
imaginary line around which an object can be rotated a certain number of degrees
and still resemble the original shape. When two planes of symmetry intersect, they
form a straight line, which is the axis of symmetry. Symmetry is one of the
factors jewelers look for when grading cut stones. See Four C's.
Azurite: A copper-based mineral
that is often used
in jewelry ranging from very deep blue to pale blue.
Azurite is also used as a dye for paints and luxury fabrics.
Azurite Malachite: Malachite is often found in the same mineral
deposits as azurite. Azurite Malachite is simply a mineral which contains both
forms of stone and has bands of
light and dark blue.
